Selecting a camera mount for your rig

If you have ever tried to dial in a camera on a pinball or arcade rig, you already know the problem. The camera works. The frame works. The mount is where everything falls apart.

You get the shot lined up, step away, and it slowly sags. Or you move the rig to a new machine and have to re-adjust every single angle and locking knob. Or the mount technically has all the adjustment in the world, but every change throws something else off. Overhead shots are crooked. Side angles feel forced. You end up compensating with a sub-par angle instead of setting the camera where it should be.

That is the problem these newly launched hinges were designed to solve. Two hinges, two different setup problems.

Most camera mounts, especially ball joints, try to do everything. In practice, that usually means they do nothing particularly well. We ended up with two hinge designs because there are two very different problems that show up on real streaming rigs.

The first problem is predictable motion. You want the camera to move into a known position and land there cleanly every time. The second problem is alignment. You need fine control because the machine, frame, or mounting point is not perfectly level or square. Those problems look similar until you try to solve them with the wrong hardware.

Fold-over hinge for fixed, repeatable shots. The PARAFLIP Fold-Over Camera Hinge (180° Offset) was originally designed for playfield and overhead cameras. Link: https://shop.para-flip.com/products/paraflip-fold-over-camera-hinge-180-offset

This hinge is meant for setups where the camera mounts above the target and folds down into position. Ceiling mounts, upper frame bars, shelves, and permanent installs are where it works best.

The offset geometry creates a clean forward to downward motion. You swing the camera down and it lands straight where you expect it. There is no fighting angles and no trial and error trying to get a true top-down view.

The tradeoff is intentional. You give up some flexibility in exchange for simplicity and repeatability. Once it is set, you usually do not touch it again. For fixed installs, that is often exactly what you want.

Articulating hinge for dialing in real-world angles. The PARAFLIP Articulating Camera Hinge (135°) exists for setups where close enough is not good enough. Link: https://shop.para-flip.com/products/paraflip-articulating-camera-hinge-135

This hinge gives you real control over tilt, roll, and yaw without turning into a floppy mess. It is what makes side angle shots look natural and score cams stay readable.

While we originally used the fold-over hinge for playfield cameras, we now use the articulating hinge for most setups, including playfields. When machines are not perfectly level or frames are not perfectly square, the ability to fine-tune the angle matters. The hinge range is controlled on purpose. It is flexible where you need it and stable once positioned.

Both hinges use high-friction nylon bearings. They can hold real weight without relying on independent locking clamps that loosen over time. Once the camera is positioned, it stays there. They are compact and lightweight, which matters on crowded rigs or when you want things to look professional. They also both have dual rotation on the mounts, which makes screwing into a mount point or camera trivial.

They use a standard camera mount and have been tested with a wide range of webcams and cameras, including Logitech, NexiGo, and Sony. While designed around PARAFLIP cams rigs, they work well in many other setups.

You are not required to use PARAFLIP mounts everywhere. Metal mounts can be great. Just be careful with ball joints. They wear out, and a slipping camera over a machine is not something you want to learn about the hard way.

Choosing the right tool

If you want a fixed overhead shot that lands in the same place every time, the fold-over hinge keeps things simple.

If you need to dial in angles because nothing is perfectly aligned, the articulating hinge gives you control without sacrificing stability.

Neither one is about maximum adjustability. They are about removing friction from real setups by adding real friction on the mount point. When the mount stops being the problem, the rest of the rig gets easier to live with.